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  1. #21
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    If you prefer polyurethane, I'd use Minwax Polyshades for the tint, best sprayed through an HVLP gun for an even tint. First, I would lay down some sealer coats of poly and sand back to 400.

    Here are some good instructions that include wet-sanding and polishing after all your clear coats have cured (I'd recommend 2 weeks for poly, 6 for nitro):

    http://www.reranch.com/basics.htm
    The Human Torch was denied a bank loan.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tele savalas View Post
    If you prefer polyurethane, I'd use Minwax Polyshades for the tint, best sprayed through an HVLP gun for an even tint. First, I would lay down some sealer coats of poly and sand back to 400.

    Here are some good instructions that include wet-sanding and polishing after all your clear coats have cured (I'd recommend 2 weeks for poly, 6 for nitro):

    http://www.reranch.com/basics.htm
    In your years of doing this what is your preference?


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  3. #23
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    I go back and forth.

    Nitro - pros: more forgiving, as each coat melts into the one below, probably sands easier...cons: takes a long time to cure (will gas off for months), environmentally not-so-friendly (I'd wear a good mask for either nitro or poly, but of the two, nitro is more toxic)

    Poly - pros: Fast curing, probably harder...cons: coats don't blend, and you can therefore get "witness lines" if you sand through one coat into the next. To avoid this, follow the instructions on the can very carefully. Some folks say that because it is harder, poly doesn't let the wood resonate properly, but I never noticed a difference.
    The Human Torch was denied a bank loan.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by tele savalas View Post
    I go back and forth.

    Nitro - pros: more forgiving, as each coat melts into the one below, probably sands easier...cons: takes a long time to cure (will gas off for months), environmentally not-so-friendly (I'd wear a good mask for either nitro or poly, but of the two, nitro is more toxic)

    Poly - pros: Fast curing, probably harder...cons: coats don't blend, and you can therefore get "witness lines" if you sand through one coat into the next. To avoid this, follow the instructions on the can very carefully. Some folks say that because it is harder, poly doesn't let the wood resonate properly, but I never noticed a difference.
    Hmm makes me think Nitro. How about using Tru Oil?

    If you use grain sealer do you tint first?


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  5. #25
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    Grain filler first, sealing coats second, sand to 400 then tint. I've done necks with Tru Oil and Gun Wax - much smoother than lacquer or poly. Haven't done a body with it, but I know some of the guys at the Reranch forum have and they would tell you their process, I'm sure.
    The Human Torch was denied a bank loan.

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  7. #26
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    So I got my hands on this body with a Spaled Maple top...

    Same finishing process? Filler, Sealer, Tint and Finish?


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  8. #27
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    I haven't worked with spalted but hear it can be difficult to finish. Still, I would take the same approach, with the exception that maple does not need grain-filler.
    The Human Torch was denied a bank loan.

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  10. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by tele savalas View Post
    I haven't worked with spalted but hear it can be difficult to finish. Still, I would take the same approach, with the exception that maple does not need grain-filler.
    Iíve been reading that Z Poxy is the way for Spalded Maple. Ever work with Z Poxy?


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  11. #29
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    I have used it as a grain-filler, but maple doesn't have open pores. What would the application of epoxy be on maple? As a sealer?
    The Human Torch was denied a bank loan.

  12. #30
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    Yes, apparently as a sealer. Leave no bare maple before tinting. What's the rest of the body made of - swamp ash?

    http://reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic...hlight=spalted
    The Human Torch was denied a bank loan.

 

 

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